Miso Salmon with Shishito Peppers
Summerlin, after years of enduring chains such as the Claim Jumper and the sadly Americanized Mimis Caf, is finally coming into its own as a restaurant destination. But I was discouraged to hear (from an employee at Vintner Grill) that Honey Salt had taken a bite out of the bottom line at that restaurant. It made me wonder if this area, populated with the smart set, would support a multiplicity of upscale restaurants. Time will tell.
Interior
Now, there is one more. Were talking about Poppy Den, opened by the entrepreneur Kelley Jones at Tivoli Village, and a showcase for the talents of a wiseguy chef, Angelo Sosa, who exudes talent and imagination. The movie star handsome Sosa has quite the resume.
Caesar Salad
Sosa was mentored by Jean-Georges Vongerichten (Prime, Jean-Georges), the Alsatian-born global chef who leans heavily toward Asia when he isnt doing steak in this city. And his food is whimsical, fun and delicious. My only concern is that the locals wont get it. Because in general, the food public gets what it deserves.
It would be too reductive to call this an Asian fusion gastropub; Sosas menu is both too eclectic, and too international to do that. The chef, who is a trifle sassy, is one of the few in the kitchen with the chops to inject his personality into the dishes. The restaurant has an upstairs lounge (formerly home to a Greek disaster called Petra-no one I met had an inkling this place even had an upstairs) and a rustic, black and white main dining room.
Amma's Tomato Soup
Enter through a bar where a number of creative cocktails such as Naked Lunch, a combination of Kai Lychee Vodka, Aperol, lime, sake and cola, are served, and sit next to an outdoor patio not being used during the cold months, which the management will turn into some sort of de facto private seating area when the weather warms.
The Lunch menu is composed of Small Plates, Grains and Large Plates, as well as a few desserts. Snatch up the Jarred Tuna first. Its oddly constructed but addictive. The dish sits in a square glass jar, long strips of tuna marinated in a hard to identify sauce that is creamy, complex and subtly spiced.
Steak and Potatoes
Ammas Homemade Tomato Soup has a swirl of curry cream on top to reduce the acidity that plagues lesser tomato soups, and is a standout. Caesar Salad with Yuzu Dressing uses smoked whitefish instead of anchovy, and has a hint of wasabi. Get the idea?
Not to say that everything works. I didnt much care for the unwieldy The Generals Chicken Wings. They were nicely spiced, but had too much cornstarch in their crusts, and the bionic sized wings lacked any visual appeal. But more conventional bites from Asia, such as Korean BBQ short ribs, tasty, but light on the sesame oil and garlic, or an interesting, Korean-influenced take on seared pork dumplings-really just the mandu that you can get in any Korean restaurant around here, work better.
Korean Barbecue Short Ribs
As to the Large Plates I sampled, Miso Salmon with Shishito Peppers was the best one, with something called Steak and Potatoes coming in a close second. Im not sure about the little trick Sosa pulls with these potatoes, spice crusted golden brown medallions. If you like home fries, though, these potatoes are about ten times better.
Sosa told me I had to come back for the Poppy Burger. I want to. After eating this food, I know it wont be ordinary. If youve saved room for dessert, his take on the conventional strawberry shortcake will dazzle you. Instead of that dry biscuit, he uses what looks and tastes like tres leches cake without the gooey frosting as a substitute.
Its a brilliant idea, just one of many, apparently, that this guy is waiting to spring on us.
Poppy Den, Inside Tivoli Village. 802-2480.
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