Reprinted with permission from Seven Weekly Las Vegas. Check out Seven Magazine by picking a copy up at Unicahome and other fine venues in our fair Village of Las Vegas. Find out what is new and notable in Las Vegas onlinehere.Cantina Laredo, incidentally, is just down the street from the Unicahome pop-up store.
fiesta de la padilla photos by zach williams
Tivoli Village started slowly, but things have picked up of late, and the mall, which still feels like a poor relation of Boca Park, should gather steam in 2013. I like their chances.
Part of my optimism is based on a number of new restaurants slated to open. Angelo Sosa is about to launch an Asian fusion restaurant, Poppy Den; and creative L.A. chef Sam Marvin will reveal a steakhouse called Echo & Rig sometime in spring.
You wont starve in the meantime, though. View Wine Bar & Kitchen in the Market is hot, while Brio and Caf Leone are holding steady. But for me, the best current choice is the recently opened Cantina Laredo, part of a chain with more than 100 locations from Texas to Dubai.
Although the cuisine is Mexican, the design feels Japanese, thanks to lots of white birch paneling and floor-to-ceiling glass windows. This is a handsome, rambling space, with a bar, a large outdoor patio furnished with fancy tables and chairs that arent much used during the cold months, an abundance of sculptures and a number of lithographs by 20th-century artists, such as Joan Mir.
You dont have to stare long at that weird metal cart contraption (a sculpture, more like) being wheeled around from table to table. The gimmicky Top Shelf Guacamole cart, which the servers push relentlessly, is stocked with glass jars containing minced peppers and other components made to mash into peeled avocado. Do you want some? Maybe, but I prefer the two complimentary house salsas. That said, be careful not to fill up on the endless baskets of warm house tortilla chips, which will be rapidly replenished by the friendly servers here.
One of the advantages of dining in a chain restaurant is how accommodating management is authorized to be. I ordered thechile con quesoa bowl of melted, lifeless cheeseand the dish was magically removed from my check when I suggestedmerely suggestedto the server that it wasnt what anyone was expecting.
Furthermore, the team tries hard to please. Youre asked repeatedly how you like any given dish, and if you so much as wrinkle your nose, someone will offer to substitute it for something else. Happily, that is rarely the case: This cooking is solid, Americanized to some extent, but generally quite flavorful.
tacos de barbacoa
Tacos de barbacoa, for instance, is made with slow-simmered, meltingly tender brisket, and no one at my table minded thatbarbacoaalmost always means lamb in Mexico. An excellentpastor(spiced pork) gets its understated sweetness from diced pineapple.Enchiladas de carnehave a deliciouspicadillo(ground beef) filling, and come blanketed in a rich, dark sauce laced with chilies. That same filling graces thechile relleno, which three of us fought over.
Look toEspecialidadesforFiesta de la Parilla, my favorite dish in the house. A sizzling-hot metal plate arrives, topped with shrimp,carnitas, quail, beef and chicken with onions and peppers. Guacamole, sour cream and chopped tomatoes come with it, as well, in a little side dish concealing a pile of tortillas. Is it the same guacamole as servers make at the table? Not quite, but who cares?
the traditional mexican apple pie?
The sizzling plate also figures in the two big-deal desserts, one called Mexican Apple Pie, the other Mexican Brownie. Of course, neither is Mexican in the slightest, but the servers make a big production out of pouring brandy-butter on them, which melts and bubbles on cue. This cant be bad. Cantina Laredo isnt too bad, either.
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