Selasa, 05 Februari 2013

The Eyes Have It: Andreas at Wynn


Andrea Wynn's Eyes Photo by Barbara Kraft

The sensuous, color-shifting eyes flashing over the bar at Andreas, the new Asian fusion restaurant at Encore, belong to Steve Wynns wife, Andrea, taken from a photograph by local shutterbug Denise Truscello. Indeed, everything about this build-out, from chic dcor by Todd-Avery Lenahan to the Japanese-anchored menu by Nobu alum Joe Elevado, is an eye-opener. Its hard to remember this room was once Switch.

The nightlife-ification of Wynn Resorts continues with the nightclub-adjacent Andreas (pronounced Ahn-DRAY-uhs, please), an airy, cream-and-gold space with windows that open to neighboring Surrender Nightclub. The ceiling is studded with geometric rows of crystal teardrops. The dining room is geared toward and filled with beautiful people, here to party and enjoy the modernist Asian fare by executive chef Elevado. Their next stop is likely to be Surrender.


Japanese Kobe Rib Cap. Photo by Checko Salgado

Perhaps the best tables in here are a series of private booths couched behind doors composed of shimmering metal beads, which run along the perimeter of the mezzanine wall. In luring Elevado back from Los Angeles, Wynn Resorts has officially become part of the turning Japanese phenomenon currently under way in Las Vegas. The master himself, Nobu Matsuhisa, is about to open his own tower at Caesars Palace. Meanwhile, in Chinatown, there is a seemingly endless parade of new sushi bars and ramen houses.

So dont be surprised to see a full menu of sushi, sashimi and esoteric hand and cut rolls that you couldnt find in Tokyo with a divining rod. Nobu may be the chef who made Japanese a global cuisine, but he developed his unique style in Lima, Peru, so its not surprising that Elevado, a Nobu disciple, is largely following suit.

Well, not altogether. I loved his take onshishitopeppers, served warm in a small pot with a sprinkling of beadedararerice crackers and a delectable mustard miso. And his Kumamoto oysterslaced with smoky ponzu gele, Indonesiansambal(chili sauce) and spring onion stand proudly alongside the oyster dishes at Sage and Guy Savoy, as the Strips best.

Two rolls I triedone, a combination ofwagyubeef and lobster (steep at $36, and to my view, mostly a gimmick), the other a rolled cucumber with yellowtail and albacore miso cleverly crammed insidewere both fine, but ahamachi(farmed yellowtail) sashimi took the prize, made with crispy garlic, cherry peppers, cilantro andcalamantsisoy sauce.

Are there other touches from Elevados native Philippines, such as thecalamantsisoy, on Andreas eclectic, pan-Asian menu? Not many. But there are dim sum, such as limp, pan-fried scallion pancakes, crispy pork pot stickers and even Gardein chickenshumai, for those of you towing the vegan line like the eponymous Andrea.

Many Asian bases are covered here, though.Tom kha gai, a creamy coconut-ginger chicken soup, is distinctly Thai. One could argue that the chefs whole crispy fish (an oddity in a tomato and egg broth), is similar tosinigang, a Filipino fish dish, except, in this case, minus the sour tang of tamarind.

Sixty-five bucks may seem a lot for a steak, but this baby is a Japanese Kobe rib cap, and worth the indulgence. And Ill have to return for Elevados five-spice garlic lobster, served with long beans. I saw it on an adjacent table, and it looked and smelled great.

Make sure to get a cocktail such as the Asian Pear, created for the room by top-notch Wynn Resorts mixologist Patricia Richards. Desserts are rarely a strong suit in an Asian restaurant, but there is a nice display of exotic ice creams, in tiny cones, on a tree-like contraption.

Just go easyAndrea is watching.


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