Minggu, 13 Januari 2013

A Tale of Two Omakase: Japanese Chefs Choice Cuisine in Las Vegas


Omakase, translated loosely from Japanese as chefs choice, is one way to go at many of our best Japanese restaurants. Raku, an off-Strip izakaya, or sake house, has made the genre famous, even though the specialty there is robata, char-grilled dishes.

On Strip, two Japanese restaurants rule, at competing price points. Mizumi at the Wynn will serve you a multi-course dinner for $125, at the whim of the chef. Koi, a jazzy Planet Hollywood venue, will do a less elaborate version for $50, at the sushi bar only.

I ate an elaborate dinner at Mizumi, where talented chef Devin Hashimoto, a native of Hawaii who speaks fluent Japanese, dazzled me with fare such as spicy King crab and taro tacos, and yellowtail sashimi dressed with a jalapeno gelee.

Service at Mizumi commences with formal tea service, premium teas served in glass pitchers. Kikucha is sweet, medicinal and pungent. Genmai is toasty brown rice tea with the finish of buttery popcorn. There are several other options, all at additional charge.


oysters

An omakase at Mizumi might go something like this. Begin with sashimi, as tradition demands, something simple such as a modestly priced mackerel, and then progress to a cold dish such as the crab taco, yellowtail sashimi or chilled kusshi oysters splashed with a yuzu vinaigrette. Dont expect o-toro, fatty tuna belly, for these prices.


pork belly robata-yaki

Now its time for some of that robata-yaki, perhaps chicken wings with lemon, apple wood smoked bacon wrapped asparagus or crunchy pork belly.


mentaiko pasta

Hot dishes would be next, ishikayi tartare bi bim bap, a take on the stone pot mixed rice and vegetable dish served in most Korean restaurants, or Peking duck breast done with duck jus, roasted baby beet and pomegranate. Sushi will be served at the finish. Quality and service are impeccable here. Mizumi is a class act.

You get what you pay for. So while the fall omakase at Koi is a bargain at $50, it wont compare with what you get at Mizumi. This is a set menu, pre-advertised, no choices. If you like lobster salad, youre in luck. Its wrapped in nori seaweed, and makes a terrific first course. The next two courses are raw, hamachi, and then salmon carpaccio, which is almost ruined by the presence of that stinky chemical, truffle oil.

A tempura pumpkin is brought from the kitchen, and then, according to the chef, Chad Kuney, the most popular item served here, spicy tuna on crispy rice, which will be done in the kitchen as well, not at the sushi bar. These dishes are served family style, and not on individual plates. As I said, you get what you pay for.


unagi foie gras (KOI)

Youll then get a freshwater eel and foie gras nigiri sushi, one each. It happens that the sushi chef behind the counter wrinkled his nose at the very mention of this dish, but hes from Japan, and this dish, while palatable, is unheard of in his country.


Duck with Shishito Peppers (KOI)

The main dish in this tasting, also served family style, is my favorite. Were talking rare sliced duck breast with grilled shishito peppers, garnished with pomegranate seed. Its a case of fusion that works, a rare commodity at Koi, IMHO.


Mochi (KOI)

I sort of like the dessert here, mochi ice cream, even though the flavors, green tea and mango, dont appeal to me. Whats wrong with strawberry, or even red bean? For $50, I cant complain. Well, maybe just a little.

Mizumi is at Wynn Las Vegas, 770-7000. Koi is at Planet Hollywood, 454-4455.


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